Radiant barrier frequently asked questions. energy conservation
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Frequently Asked Questions about Radiant
Barrier
Radiant Barrier
Chips
What
is radiant barrier? The
name comes from the ability to be a barrier to the transfer of radiant heat.
Radiant barrier is made from materials that are very good at reflecting radiant
heat and they also are very poor at emitting radiant heat.
What is "TCM"
TCM is an acronym for our latest product: "Thermal
Control Membrane". TCM is a multi-layered radiant
barrier that can be rolled out over existing attic insulation (no dust problem),
or stapled to walls in new construction. If used on walls and in the attic
of a new home the HVAC sizing must be reduced by at least 30% or the units will
short cycle due to the reduced heat gain and heat loss of the home.
What is radiant heat?
Radiant heat
is heat that is radiated from a heat source through space (with or without air).
The heat from the sun is radiant heat. Most of the heat from a bright
light bulb is radiant heat. Radiant heat is also called infra-red heat or
infra-red energy.
What is infra-red
energy? Infra-red energy is electro-magnetic energy that is not visible. It
is next to red in the light wavelength spectrum. It travels at the speed
of light (186,000 miles per second), until it hits a surface (like your home).
This stopping of the energy source excites the molecules in the wall which
starts to conduct the heat towards inside (during the summer). When infra-red
energy is traveling through air, a very small portion of the energy is absorbed
by molecules in the air.
How does heat
move?
Heat moves by conduction, convection, and
radiation. Conduction is the
process that occurs in substances denser than air like water and wood and stone
where the heat moves through the substance. Conduction occurs rapidly in metals
like gold and copper and very slowly in an insulation like fiberglass.
Convection is the process where air makes contact with substances that are
conducting heat and the air is heated. Hot air rises and this movement makes
room for cooler air and the process continues until the air and the surfaces are
close to the same temperature. Radiation is the process of the infra-red energy emitting from the heated substance
through space. The energy travels in a straight line at the speed of light until
it is absorbed or reflected by another substance. It is important to remember
that in order for heat to move by radiation, there must be space between the
objects. The space can be as small as a few air molecules and still be
effective. If the objects are touching, then the heat moves by conduction, not
be radiation.
What is
reflectivity?
Reflectivity, for radiant barrier purposes, can be defined as a measure of
how much of the energy is reflected and not absorbed by the barrier. Very shiny
aluminized plastic can reflect 98% of the radiant heat that strikes
it.
What is
absorbtivity?
Absorbtivity, for radiant barrier purposes, can be defined as a measure of how
much of the energy is not reflected and is absorbed by the material.
What is
emissivity?
Emissivity is the ability for radiant heat to emit from a surface. The
higher the emissivity, the faster radiant heat is emitted. Very
shiny aluminized plastic only emits about 4% of the heat absorbed radiantly and
also from the hot air around it. This is why pot belly stoves are flat black, so
they will freely emit radiant heat. For comparison, unpainted wood has an
e value of .95 making it an excellent emitter (that's why insulation gets so
hot). Polished gold (the lowest e value), has an e factor of .02 and be seen on
the face shields of space helmets.
What kind of
materials are used to make radiant barrier?
Aluminum foils are one common material.
Our proprietary products use a new type of plastic radiant barrier made possible
by successful research into making a lighter weight radiant barrier for
spacecraft. The process is called vacuum deposition technology and it makes it
possible to put a very, very thin deposit of aluminum on a film substrate.
After the
summer sun goes down, where is the hottest place in the attic?
Most people (architects,
builders even engineers), quickly comment that the hottest place in the attic is
up near the center of the roof. Heat rises right? Sure, heat rises
but radiant travels at 186,000 miles per second in a straight line from the
emitting source. For this example (since we are talking about
houses), it would be the roof deck. So, if radiant heat is being emitted
from the roof deck towards the insulation where does it stop? The
insulation. Care to venture a guess now where the hottest spot is in the
attic? The top couple of inches of the insulation! Fact is, 1" below
the insulation can be as much as 20 to 30 degrees hotter than the hottest air
you can measure anywhere in the attic...including up near the peak. And it
remains the hottest thing in the attic until the next morning when the sun
begins its radiant heating again. It is easy to comprehend when we
consider that the insulation has been absorbing radiant
heat all day long, and now it is resisting that heat is trying to leave
into the cooler attic air.
In the attic, where is the best
place to install radiant barrier?
One problematic technique is to put radiant barrier directly on the
underside of the roof sheeting. What happens in any attic that is not extremely
well ventilated is that the surface of the radiant barrier gets very hot and the
heat is conducted and convected into the air of the attic causing the attic and
its insulation to get quite hot. Then once the sun goes down and the heat wants
to radiate out of the insulation, it is reflected back by the radiant barrier
trapping this unwanted heat for hours.
Further, any application of radiant
barrier up at the roof deck has little or no savings or impact on comfort during
winter months. One other consideration is the overheating of shingles.
Shingle manufacturers are now limiting or voiding warranties where RBS is
installed under the roof decking.
So, the only logical
location left is on top of the insulation. Here, the radiant barrier does
the bulk of its work by preventing the infra-red energy from being absorbed by
the porous insulation. The radiant barrier gets hot because it is a poor emitter
and it conducts and convects the heat to the cooler air at the floor of the
attic. The air rises and can leave at any attic vent and does not have to be
controlled like the aforementioned method. Only the RBS Chips save you
energy everyday of the year and carries a lifetime performance warranty.
How important
is attic ventilation with an attic radiant barrier system?
Ventilation is very important
because this is the primary method used to get rid of the heat that is being
stopped by the radiant barrier. In climates that require a lot of cooling,
it is recommended that attic ventilation at the top of the attic meet or exceed
the Uniform Building Code recommendations of 1/150th of the attic area. The UBC
also specifies 1/600th at the eaves/soffits of the roof. It is recommended that
this be at least 1/200th of the attic area. The UBC's attic ventilation
requirements are directed toward preventing moisture condensation problems but
they are equally valuable to hot climate homes that need to get rid of the heat
absorbed by the roof. It is the opinion of this site that venting codes
are not sufficient for hot climates as they are designed for moisture egress,
not sufficient exhausting of super heated air.
Isn't it difficult to install radiant
barrier in an existing attic?
Stapling up
sheets of radiant barrier is very difficult to install in existing attics and as
can be seen
in this test, an incorrect application. It is
also difficult to get a good installation because of the difficult working
conditions of extreme heat in the summer, low headroom, numerous roof framing or
truss webs in the way, and low light conditions. Our TCM product comes in
small, easy to use rolls and simply rolls out over your existing
insulation.
What is the
"Achilles Heel" of radiant barrier?
One most know one's strengths and one's
weaknesses! Think about this. What makes a mirror not reflect well? Dirt! It is
the same for radiant barrier so when dust collects on the upward-facing highly
reflective surface of the radiant barrier, it then has a very low reflectivity
and is now a very good absorber. Now only the downward-facing low emissivity
surface is left to do the work. All of our patented RBS products have
multiple layers which insure dust accumulation on the top layer does not degrade
the performance...forever. One of our competitors has this on their web
page:
Q. What about using
"foil chips" in my attic ? Wouldn't that be just as good as laying down your
product on my existing insulation ? A. No. One company claims their
product performs better than other RB products and is not subjected to such
problems as dust on the surface affecting its performance and claim their
product would not trap moisture, where others products would. Because there is
no regulation of what people say on web pages, the consumer is at the mercy of
the advertiser. You need to demand that the seller provide you with acceptable
test data on their product, not someone else's! You need to protect yourself so
you don't get ripped off. Compare and don't be taken in by false claims. For
example, all RB products installed in attics must have a flame spread rating of
25 or less according to UBC(Uniform Building Code). That means the supplier must
be able to provide you with a copy of this test if you request it. When in doubt
make them supply documentation!
Fact is, only RBS
Chips have a lifetime, transferable performance warranty. Before buying
any RBS, make sure you get a performance warranty in writing. As
for the fire rating, RBS chips have a class III fire rating as specified on the
material data safety sheet supplied by the manufacturer. This rating means
RBS chips will burn but will not give off toxic fumes or smoke. Keep this
in mind: In a 2000 square foot home only 66lbs of RBS chips are used.
That's 1056 ounces spread out over 2000 square feet or a little over a
half ounce per square foot. There simply is not enough mass (fuel) to
make this an issue. To further prove this, in December of 2002 one of the
homes that had RBS Chips installed had an attic fire due to a bad connection
without an electrical box. The old cellulose insulation caught fire and
the homeowner observed this and put it out with a fire extinguisher. When
asked if the RBS Chips appeared to contribute the fire he said "no".
Is there a
way to avoid dust in attics?
No. There is no practical way to keep an attic dust free so
the challenge for radiant barriers is to work well in spite of the dust. As a
matter of fact, a radiant barrier system is not designed to work with dust is
not worth considering. Some studies seem to be finding that some types of
dusty radiant barrier are worse than no radiant barrier at all.
Well,
then if the attic floor is the best place for radiant barrier but dust makes it
not work, and it is difficult to install, what are my options? These
challenges were the catalyst to the invention of a new kind of radiant barrier
called EcoGuard Radiant Barrier
Chips and Thermal Control Membrane. Chips are made from aluminized plastic film that is manufactured
into small pieces. Then to install it, a lightweight blower and hose is employed
to blow a coating of chips on top of the existing insulation. The radiant
barrier becomes a topcoat to the insulation, the "icing on the cake" that makes
a complete insulation. This same engineering principle was used to develop
our latest product: Thermal Control Membrane (TCM). Dust is no longer the
death-knell because the chips (and TCM), are installed multiple layers deep,
which is how a true radiant barrier is made. The layer exposed to dust
becomes ineffective on the dusty side but all the rest keep doing their
job.
How about mixing the chips with the
insulation and blowing them in all at once?
Chips must lay on top of
each other and mixing fibrous insulation with them would only serve to lower the
performance.
What happens
if the chips are disturbed?
If the chips are installed on batt insulation, it is
very easy to just move them back over the places where the insulation is
exposed. When chips are installed on loose-fill insulation and the chips
become well mixed with the insulation, it is necessary to thin out the many
layers around the disturbed area and use them to cover the exposed
insulation.
Do the chips
stop the moisture from migrating and cause condensation problems?
No. Because the
chips are not one continuos layer but are loose, the moisture trying to leave a
warm humid house into a cold attic has no problem getting out. But with
continuous, unperforated sheet radiant barriers, moisture condensation has been
a real problem in colder climates.
What if the
attic is small and there is no way a person could get in there to blow the
chips?
Many times such attics are under-ventilated. With the need for more
ventilation, this provides a serendipitous opportunity to cut some small holes
in the roof, blow the chips in and then install the attic dormer-shaped vents or
adding an extension pipe to the RBS Chip blowing hose.
How about chips and
cold climates? Radiant Barrier Chips
work as well in cold climates as it does in hot climates. Much like a Thermos
bottle, the reflective coating on the RBS film reflects interior heat back into
the room. Our testing has shown ceiling temperatures increase 8f to 10f degrees
where the chips are installed. In new homes, radiant barrier can be installed in
sheet form, just behind the drywall thus becoming a vapor barrier and a radiant
barrier. Reductions up to 47% have been reported and much more comfortable
homes.